Taroko Gorge, Taiwan

This would be my second time attempting to see the gorge. The last time, Ms. Essex and I were greeted by a typhoon that spoiled our plans. Taroko was closed and we had to go home unsatisfied. I was determined to see it this time, no matter what the weather did!

So this time, there were nine of us in two rental cars. We began driving east, across the island and over the mountains.

This was very out of place. Looked more like Europe than Taiwan.

We pushed our beat up rentals hard and drove above the clouds.

              

On the way, driving on highway 7 through the mountains, it began to rain and rain and rain and then hail. We were driving up winding, narrow roads and Taiwanese drivers found us too slow; often dangerously passing us on corners. One came so close to danger with oncoming traffic that he forced us into a guardrail. I didn’t understand why the bad weather didn’t make them slow down and drive with more caution, especially on such treacherous roads.

Their desperate attempts to pass and be in the front were to no avail though. There was a gigantic mudslide, covering the entire road.

We got out of the cars and watched as a digger and 20 workers came to sort the mess out. I thought we wouldn’t be moving for hours. We watched as more mud kept pouring down the mountain and over the road. Miraculously, the digger could get to work. After about an hour, they slowly began letting one car through at a time; while watching for another slide. When it was our turn to go, we raced through as the worker yelled at us to keep going faster. It was fun to have the excitement on our 11 hour expedition in the car.

After spending the night in Hualien, we piled back into the car and drove to the park. It was nice to finally see it! The weather was perfect, a big change from the previous day.

  

  

       

Our first planned stop in Taroko was the Baiyan Waterfall. The view reminded me of a spot I still haven’t seen, Angel Falls in Venezuela.

I walked into a dark cave, following the wall with my hand and slowly moving forward. I couldn’t see anything and cold water dripped down from above. After shuffling through the cave, I came out the other side to see the curtain of water cascading down.

  

We made it out safe, but soaked.

Making our way back through the park, we were stuck behind a giant tour bus. Coming up to a one laned curve, the bus stopped. There was another bus from the opposite direction trying to take the same corner with three more buses behind. We were all trapped by traffic from both sides. I got out of the car and began directing the traffic behind our car to back up. Six cars full of Taiwanese followed the arm wavings of a silly foreigner. It worked. The cars moved, the bus backed up. Getting back in the car, I was disappointed there were no pictures of me working as traffic cop. A stream of buses and cars passed around the corner and then we had our chance to go. It was smooth sailing after that.

I’m explaining to everyone why I am always right.

We found a temple.

    

I really wanted to see the Eternal Spring Shrine.

The main entrance was closed to construction, so we took a back path up a mountain. We crossed over a swinging suspension bridge and then began climbing zig-zagging steps. I hate stairs, but made it puffing to the top. More gorgeous views of the mountains and valleys below. There is a bell tower to honor the construction workers that have died making the many bridges and tunnels cutting through the park. We rang the bell and then continued on.

To my disappointment, there was orange tape blocking the steep stairs down to the Eternal Spring Shrine. With three weeks left in Taiwan, I wasn’t having this. I selfishly didn’t say anything to my companions and crossed under the barricade. I wondered what dangers laid ahead from the previous nasty weather. Worst case, I could always turn back. I walked down about 300 stairs and through a cave. There were a few rocks fallen on the path and some angry bats from being woken from their slumber, but besides that…it was fine.

  

The shrine was beautiful, but I quickly ran around it taking photos, trying to not be spotted by the construction workers across the river. I huffed and puffed back up the steps where my travel buddies waited and out of Taroko we went.

We decided to take a different route home and follow the east coast south and then cut across. We stopped at the popular tourist trap of the Tropic of Cancer Marker.

Women were dressed up in ethnic costumes and doing traditional dances. Very nice, but the star of the show was this man’s eyebrows.

We drove all day and arrived home in one piece. It was a nice trip. Taroko is gorgeous and one of the few sites in Taiwan that has genuinely impressed me.