Trawangan, Gili Islands, Indonesia

To end my holiday and celebrate New Year’s, I headed for the Gili Islands east of Bali. This is a popular spot during this time of year, but luckily, I had booked my bungalow months in advance. My luck didn’t end there either. A very good friend from my days of living in San Sebastian, Spain was also in the area and joined me. I love these little coincidences, when I meet friends all around the world. I’m never really traveling alone.

There are two ways to get to the Gili Islands from Bali. The first is to take the slow moving ferry that stops in Lombok. The second is the much more expensive (around $100 return) speedboat with transport directly from the airport. We didn’t want to spend most of the day on a ferry, so we took the speedboat.

Trawangan is the largest of the Gili Islands, but that doesn’t make it big. We walked around the entire thing in about an hour. Our bungalows were so cute! A high tiled roof covered a pillow cushioned terrace with a hammock, giving it a truly Bali look, but inside was modern, air conditioned, and eclectically decorated.

December is rainy season in this part of Indonesia, but we did get long periods of sunshine. This was the perfect place to relax before going back to work.

Horse drawn carts, bicycles, or walking are the only transport around the island.

The restaurants had a relaxed atmosphere and creative culinary delights that I had been missing in Myanmar. We preferred eating at a particular spot on the beach, but I also couldn’t resist the Mexican restaurant in the middle of the island. It was the closest thing to authentic Mexican that I have had in years. Everything was unrealistically delicious or maybe it was just how happy I was.

We made it to our favorite beach restaurant just in time to grab a drink and watch the fireworks at midnight. I couldn’t imagine a better start to 2015.

After all of the magic of a spectacular New Year, I had to go back home to Myanmar. Maybe I’m getting too conservative, but this woman was wearing what looked like a bra and a diaper to the airport. I can understand why places demand a dress code.

Accommodation: Puri Sayang Bungalows – Really cute bungalows, lovely staff, and close to all the action, but in a quiet neighborhood. Contact: purisayangtrawangan@gmail.com

Golden Rock, Kyaiktiyo, Myanmar

I wanted to see Golden Rock (Kyaiktiyo Pagoda) on the last day of my three day weekend.

Legend says that Buddha gave one of his hairs to a hermit. The hermit gave the hair to a king with a promise that the king would enshrine the hair in a safe place. A large granite rock, resembling the shape of the hermit’s head, was plucked from the ocean and precariously placed at the top of Kyaiktiyo Hill. The hair of Buddha was placed underneath and it is said that this hair is what keeps the rock from falling. This is a popular place for Buddhist pilgrimages and the rock is covered in gold from male devotees applying the small pieces over the years. Females are not allowed to participate in this ritual.

The plan was to catch the ‘bus’ from Hpa-An to Kyaiktiyo (pronounced Jayk-tee-oe) at 6:00 A.M. Waiting on the side of the road with my travel friend, we wondered what this ‘bus’ would look like. A beat up truck with seating attachments piled on top of each other flew past us. One of the locals yelled for it to stop and we piled on.

I knew we would have 3 or 4 hours on this mode of transport, so I was thankful it was early morning and still cool. We sat on one of the two long, hard wooden benches in the back of the truck that make even a five minute ride uncomfortable. Being an experienced Myanmar traveler, I had packed pillows for us to sit on. We were surrounded by locals, the women had flowers dangling from ponytails in their hair and children on their laps. Every once in a while, they would put the leaf wrapped betel nut in their mouths. I usually only saw men chewing on the stimulant, so I was a bit surprised. The ladies graciously gave me a flower. I thanked them and fixed it into my pinned up hair. Most of the men stood on the back of the truck, holding on to the upper tier as we rode down the highway. After a few hours, one of the ladies became sick out of the side of the truck. It seemed to always happen. The heat and bumpiness from lack of shocks, along with the occasional slamming on the brakes would make anyone sick. I had become used to seeing people vomiting from transport in Myanmar.

After crawling out of the truck in Kyaiktiyo, we went on the hunt for food. Bananas were the only thing that looked appetizing at that point. It was around 10:00 A.M. and the temperature was already past 100 degrees F.

With our breakfast and backpacks, we crawled into a slightly larger bench-lined truck. The floor was packed with tightly bound bamboo canes. Ladies piled in with bags of goods to sell at the base of the pagoda. This one flew around bends, up to the town of Kin Pun.

After this, we had to get on yet another truck. This one was similar to a very large dump truck with rows of benches. My friend and I squeezed into a row with our knees already getting bruised on the metal bench in front of us. It was nice to have the view from the top of the truck, but we were stuck in the sun. This rather expensive ride (I think around $5) went up steep roads curving around the hill.

At the top, men had bamboo chairs with long poles to carry the handicapped. People poured off the truck onto rickety metal staircases. We weaved through the reversing trucks towards the pagoda.

A few steps in and we were ushered into the office for foreigners to pay. I was ready with my passport. They asked us to pay 6,000 kyat each for a foreigner entrance fee. I showed them my passport and pointed to the business visa. I told them I didn’t need to pay because I lived, worked, and paid taxes in Yangon. They still wanted me to pay. I told them Lake Inle and Bagan did not charge me and they caved. They even let my friend in for free. I thanked them many times and then pushed my friend out of the office before they had time to change their mind.

 ≈
We slipped off our shoes and walked towards the golden rock. The sun beat down on the floor tiles. I hopped from foot to foot, feeling them burn on the hot tiles. Why would they lay tiles that burn your feet? I was so happy when I found flooring that didn’t make my feet feel like they were melting.

Then I saw the rock. It was spectacular and looked like it could fall off the cliff at any moment. Men ushered along a short aisle to apply thin pieces of gold to the rock. Women aren’t allowed to do this. I watched as my friend went to the rock and applied several small sheets of gold.

The surrounding hills and valleys created a lush and green background to the golden rock. It shined in the sun and seemed to lose its magic every time a cloud covered the sun.

After using the horrific bathrooms (I was allowed to wear my shoes, but had to pay for a small bucket of water), we headed back to the trucks. It was 2:00 P.M. at this point and we had only eaten the bananas. Some questionable samosas tempted me too much and I bought 6. My friend and I ate them up quickly, but both paid for it later that night.

After two truck rides back to the town of Kyaiktiyo, we unsuccessfully tried to take the train back to Yangon. It wasn’t leaving for another 3 hours, so we walked to the main road in town to catch a bus. It was a holiday weekend, but we got lucky and managed to score some middle seats on an air conditioned bus. This ended up not being the luxury we thought, the ac wasn’t strong enough for the amount of people packed on the bus, we got stuck an additional 2 hours in traffic in Bago, and a girl sitting next to my friend continuously vomited into plastic bags that were quickly thrown out the window. We arrived back at my apartment at 10:00 P.M. It was such a long day and all I wanted was a shower and my bed.

Advice: Golden Rock is a bit over 3 hours from Yangon. There are very few trains, but many buses that go daily.

Dragon and Lion Dance Competition, Chinatown, Yangon

   The event occurs around Chinese New Year on upper Sinn O Dan St. There are 5 nights of competition. The event starts at 7pm and doesn’t end until after 10P.M. every night.

 

It is best to arrive early and get one of the free seats set around the poles. People will push into your territorial bubble, so no standing room is sacred. The event is free and if you can’t get close, the action is projected on screens near Maha Bandula St.

Each team has a band of drummers. All of the drummers watch a lead drummer who keeps the pace with the lion dancers. The drums are loud, obnoxious, but soon become mesmerizing as they build suspense before the acrobatic acts.

  

The lion is made of two men under a bright and elaborate costume. One man is the front, the other the back.  The dancers do acrobatics on top of poles of varying heights that are barely wide enough for them to stand on top. The man who is the back of the lion carries the other on top of his shoulders while jumping and running from pole to pole.

 

They make the lion appear real by doing its mannerisms, blinking the eyes, opening the mouth, licking or scratching. The lion moves and dances to the beat of the many different drums.

 

Volunteering and Donations, Yangon, Myanmar

Finding a place to volunteer or donate can be tough to find in Yangon. Many places don’t have websites; I put this list together to benefit everyone.

There are two categories: those that you must have an appointment to visit and those that don’t need an appointment. If an appointment is needed, you will need to have someone who speaks Myanmar call the listed contact. They will most likely not speak English, so don’t attempt to call yourself. Also, DO NOT SHOW UP UNANNOUNCED to the places that need an appointment. Many of these places must ask for permission to have a foreigner visit their establishment.

If you have any information on additional organizations, please send them to me.

No Appointment Needed

Food Not Bombs: A group meets every Monday at 8:00 P.M to distribute food to the homeless. Bring vegetarian or vegan food to donate. Look for the monks gathering under the walking bridge at the corner of Sule Pagoda Rd. and Anawratha Rd. in downtown Yangon. map

Dala Orphanage: Dala is a very poor village across the river from Yangon. The town doesn’t have many basics, such as plumbing. Tricycle drivers take tourists to the sites and a local orphanage (usually unknown by the tourist until they see the children). The tourists are then pressured into buying junk food from a nearby shop for the orphans that are lined up and waiting. These orphans really need everything. Toothbrushes, toothpaste, and clothes are good donations. There are children of all ages here. Healthy food is an excellent donation, since they are getting junk food from tourists. To get there, take the ferry over the river and simply tell the tricycle driver that you want to go to the orphanage. Have someone write the word in Myanmar before you go, in case the driver doesn’t speak English. They will try and charge foreigners a very high price, so haggle. It should only cost a few thousand kyat for a return ride. The orphanage is actually a few raised shacks in a field. map

Appointment Required

 

Training School for Girls: This is a government funded all girls orphanage.

Objective: To train and nurture the street children including socially and economically disadvantaged children, not to be the dependent, but to be able to stand on their own feet in their society.

Most are teenagers, but there are a few as young as six. They also have one baby that was abandoned at their doorstep. They really need toiletries (toothbrushes, toothpaste, sanitary napkins). Something fun for the girls would be make-up or hair accessories.

Across the street from the War Memorial Cemetery.
Address: No. 45, Yangon-Pyay Rd., Htauk Kyant, Mingalardon Township, Yangon
Ph: +95(0)9-448544958, 01-600031

Myanmar Christian Fellowship of the Blind – Yangon Education Centre for the Blind: Goal: To turn them into differently able persons. Zeena is the contact. Her English is very good. Ages 6-20, girls and boys. Students that are old enough go to University in Yangon. Some useful items: Musical instruments, mosquito spray and racquets, Braille books for all ages, toothpaste, shower soap.
They also have a blind massage business near the school. 40% of profits go to the school and cost of the building, 60% are for the students to spend as they wish.
Address: No.165, Baho Road, Ward (2), Mayangone Township, Yangon
Ph: +95(0)9-32237791, 661689, 662034
Email: mcfb.yecb@gmail.com, mcfbgso@myanmar.net.mm, mcfb.admin@gmail.com
website: http://www.mcfblind.com

Monastery: This is an orphanage operated by monks in a monastery. It is mostly young boys and only a few girls. They need food, clothes, toys, toiletries (toothbrush, toothpaste). It is a bit far out of town, so taxi from town should cost 10-15,000 kyat one way. If you want to save money on transport, there is a train stop near the monastery or bus number 51 (on Pyay Road) will take you closeby and then it is a short ride by taxi. map

Labuan Bajo, Komodo Island, Indonesia

I flew to Labuan Bajo in the hopes of seeing some manta rays and komodo dragons. It’s a little town with a pretty bay and one main road that loops from town to the airport. There isn’t much to do besides eat, dive, and see dragons.

I splurged and stayed in a big hotel with a nice pool. When I walked into town, I saw someone had tied their chicken up while they shopped for groceries. 

I bought a package on the fastest speedboat on the island to go diving for mantas and then visit komodo afterward. I was not disappointed. The manta rays swam so close! They sometimes swam right over me. For Christmas, my mom got me this diving camera, I hadn’t figured out the time stamps before going down, so the dates are a bit off.

  

After three successful dives, I moved on to Komodo Island. We were met on the dock by a local man who would be my guide. He had spent his whole life on this island and carried a long Y-shaped stick to keep the dragons away. I walked through the park entrance guarded by two giant komodo dragon statues.

Within minutes I saw deer, monkeys, wild boars, and komodo dragons! I saw about fifteen that day; I was told this was very lucky. They lounged lazily in the sun, but I stayed away, knowing they can move fast when needed. Their mouths are so full of bacteria, that one bite from them can be deadly in a matter of days. The guide told me one story about a man who was bit on the island. The komodo dragon followed the man everywhere while they tried to treat him. It was waiting for him to die, so he could eat him. They caught the dragon and moved it to a sister island, but it immediately came back. They are patient and determined hunters.

        

We walked up a large hill to get a view of the island. This was a place I had never dreamed I would see. It was just something in National Geographic. Every year, I’m surprised by everything I get to see and do.

 

Advice: Dive Centers and Excursions to Komodo Island: There are many up and down the main street. Blue Marlin Dive Komodo was slightly more expensive because they did Komodo Island and diving with Manta Rays on the same trip. They also had the fastest boat, so the ride time was very short. It was definitely worth the extra money.
Blue Marlin Dive Komodo: http://www.bluemarlinkomodo.com – +62 (0) 812 3775 7892 – My excursion was $120, not including park fees.

Ijen, Indonesia

At noon, my group and I left Mount Bromo to drive to the sulfur mines in Ijen. It was dark when we pulled up at the hotel 9 hours later. We were told to be awake and ready to hike at 1:00 A.M.

After a short bus ride, we were dropped at the base of the path to Ijen volcano.

Inside the Ijen volcano is a turquoise lake of sulfuric acid. It is measured as the most acidic lake in the world. This is also the site of sulfur mines. The sulfur is collected in baskets by local men and carried out of the crater and an additional 3 kilometers down the volcano. Each load weighs 150 to 200 pounds. Most men can make two trips in a day. The gases become too dangerous after 9:00 A.M. The men make about $13 a day at the cost of long term respiratory problems and hunched backs from the weight of the baskets.

The hike up and into the crater takes 2 to 3 hours and the reason for leaving so early in the morning is to catch site of the blue flame. Sulfur burns in the volcano at 1,112 degrees F creating blue flames that can be 5 meters high. The flames can’t be seen after sunrise, so they have to be caught at night.

The hike up to the crater wasn’t too hard, but I didn’t bring a headlamp, so treacherous ditches and tree roots were a constant obstacle. The hard part was when I entered the crater. It is a 60 degree decline. I carefully maneuvered down the path, crawling over large boulders and trying not to slip on loose gravel. Miners were already walking out of the crater with their heavy loads. The path is only wide enough for one person most of the time, so I tried to flatten myself against the rocks and stay out of the way. It has to be so irritating to try and do your job and have so many tourists in the way.

The light of dawn began to brighten the sky and I tried to speed up my descent. I saw the blue flames in their last 15 minutes of viewing. They are such a cool spectacle of nature, the photos don’t do them justice. I couldn’t get a good shot.

As daylight broke, I was free to walk around and watch the miners at work. I had brought a bandana to cover my face from the fumes, some websites even recommended gas masks. I found neither necessary. The fumes didn’t bother me at all.

The lake of sulfuric acid. I was careful not to fall in.

I had read the miners liked clove cigarettes. I bought a pack before the hike and offered it to any miner I snapped a picture of. I hate giving something away that doesn’t benefit their health, but they are adults and I think handing them food might come off as insulting. A friend tried offering her Marlboro cigarettes, but they refused; they only wanted cloves.

This is what I hiked down at night. I can’t believe the miners do this twice a day with those heavy baskets.

I can’t believe the miners make two trips into the volcano a day, I was exhausted after reaching the base and I was carrying nothing. This was how I spent Christmas Day.

Advice: I booked a Bromo and IJen excursion through my hotel. When you try to book online before arrival, they give you ridiculously inflated prices. It is best to book after you arrive in Indonesia. Booking through your hotel insures that they select a good tour because if it is poor, it reflects on them through reviews. Make sure that EVERYTHING that is promised is written on your receipt (Jeep transfer for sunrise, accommodation, any meals included, park entrance fees, etc.

Entrance to Bromo was 217,500 RP when I was there. IJen’s Blue Flame was around 150,000 RP (if I remember correctly). I believe I spent around $150-$200 USD for the entire trip including all transportation from Yogyakarta to Bali, accommodation, and park fees.

Mount Bromo, Indonesia

From Yogyakarta, I joined a small tour to take me to the active volcano, Mount Bromo. I got in the van early in the morning and was surprised to be traveling with all Spanish speakers. It made me realize how much Spanish I have forgotten in the two years of living in Asia, but I tried to keep up (unsuccessfully most of the time). It is so frustrating to spend so much time learning a language and then to forget so quickly.

I had a lovely group and we drove all day and into the night to reach the base of Mount Bromo. It was cold when we got out of the car that night and we were shown to pleasant, but unheated cabins. We were told to be awake at some ungodly hour to be whisked away in a jeep for a view of sunrise. I crawled under the many covers on my bed and tried to warm up enough to sleep for a few hours.

After hearing a loud pounding on my door, I left my room and climbed into the jeep. We drove up over large bumps and dips to get to the edge of the massive crater containing Mount Bromo and a few other volcanoes.

We passed dozens of parked jeeps and pulled to a stop at the base of a path. It was so dark, we were all using headlamps or cellphones to get up to the edge of the crater. There were only a couple of people standing at the viewing point, but within minutes of us arriving, there were over a hundred. It was difficult to find a spot that wouldn’t have people in the anticipated sunrise picture.

Over the next thirty minutes, the colors from the first lights of the sun painted the sky and clouds. It seemed to change every minute. And the contents of the crater were revealed.

After sunrise, we piled back in the jeep to be taken inside of the crater. We drove over and down the edge and then everything was flat and sandy. Black sand. We parked with over a hundred jeeps this time and tourists were all flooding towards Mount Bromo. Most were walking, but some were riding small horses. I preferred to walk.

Vendors dotted the path up to the volcano, selling drinks, noodles, or fruit. The terrain was odd. What looked like dried out rivers, cut through the land as the incline grew.

The path became more and more congested by the time we reached the staircase up the side of the volcano. As I walked above the fog, the sunlight made a halo of rainbows behind my shadow. 

I had to take a few breaks on the way up, but eventually made it to the top. I looked out over the crater at all of the other tourists making their way up and then turned to see the active volcano sending plumes of smoke into the air. 

This was a great way to spend my Christmas Eve. 

Advice: I booked a Bromo and IJen excursion through my hotel. When you try to book online before arrival, they give you ridiculously inflated prices. It is best to book after you arrive in Indonesia. Booking through your hotel insures that they select a good tour because if it is poor, it reflects on them through reviews. Make sure that EVERYTHING that is promised is written on your receipt (Jeep transfer for sunrise, accommodation, any meals included, park entrance fees, etc).
Entrance to Bromo was 217,500 RP when I was there. IJen’s Blue Flame was around 150,000 RP (if I remember correctly). I believe I spent around $150-$200 USD for the entire trip including all transportation from Yogyakarta to Bali, accommodation, and park fees.

Yogyakarta, Indonesia

I started my Indonesian holiday in Yogyakarta. I had two goals, to see the temple of Borobodur and Prambanan. I didn’t have much time and needed to get all of my medical check ups that I couldn’t get in Myanmar.

I visited the Borobodur first. It was built in the 9th century and is the largest Buddhist temple in the world.

I made new friends. Everyone wanted a picture with the ‘white foreigner’. I always take pictures with people when asked. I’ve met so many westerners that get annoyed with it, but I try to remind them, ‘How many times do we take pictures of people in their daily lives without permission?’ I think I was asked over a hundred times that day. It does take extra time, but I love feeling special enough that someone wants a picture.

Next there was a quick stop at Candi Mendut. The temple is part of the pilgrimage to Borobodur, but slightly older.

I couldn’t figure out these garbage cans. They’re cement and attached to the ground, so someone has to reach in and pull everything out. Not very practical, but I guess they would withstand a monsoon.

The last stop of the day was at the Hindi temple of Prambanan. This temple was also built in the 9th century, but abandoned around 930 AD. The temple fell apart after an earthquake, but locals respected it because of legends about its forgotten history. Then the Dutch and locals looted the temple of statues and stones for garden ornaments and foundations in the 1800s. Restorations didn’t begin until the 1930s.

Advice: I hired a driver of a nice air-conditioned van holding 10 passengers to Borobodur and Prambanan from my hostel. I left around 5AM and didn’t do the sunrise viewpoint. I returned around 3PM. The total cost was IDR 555,000

Accommodation: Venezia Garden – Private rooms and dorm. Really nice atmosphere and in a quiet part in the tourist area. They are wonderful with organizing all of your tours throughout Bali and Java as well. $8 a night for dorm. There are also really pretty private rooms. Address: Jl. Surami, No.55, Yogyakarta, 55153, http://www.venezia-homestay.com/

Visa fee: Upon arrival, had just gone up to $35 USD.

Life in Myanmar

I’m adding to this as I go, so sorry if some information is incomplete.

I love Myanmar. The experiences here can be difficult at times, but the people are lovely and even though everything is dirty, there is this wonderful charm about the place. There also seems to be very little information out there as of right now. Below are my observations and hopefully some helpful information.

Clothing
Fashion is fairly conservative. I don’t see short skirts, low cut tops, or exposed shoulders. I myself have stopped wearing most of those things…at least in public. During, the night, this can change, but for the most part…very conservative.

Men wear longyis. This is a long tube of cotton fabric, usually with a plaid print, that they wrap around their waste and tie in a knot. It is a good solution to the intense heat. You will often see men squatted down near the gutters on the busy Pyay Rd. This is how they politely take a pee break.

Since Aung San Suu Kyi entered the limelight, she has brought the female longyi back into popularity. The majority of women wear them. I have 3 myself. They are tied at the waist, but the women are very particular about how they are fit. They are in every color of the rainbow and pattern. There is never too much color. Matching, fitted tops complete the ensemble.

Shoes are not allowed in religious sites and at the school I work in. The floors in these places are fairly clean, so I don’t have a problem with it…except for in the bathrooms.

Transport
Traffic is horrendous. Cars only recently became affordable and now streets are constantly congested. All drive on the right hand side, but most have the steering wheel on the right hand side. Buses still have the door on the left side from when everyone drove on the left side, but now have doors on the right as well.

Crosswalks mean nothing. Cars do not yield to you. Cars even honk at you on the crosswalk or speed up with no intention of swerving. Stoplights are only at major intersections that are still very difficult to cross. Every crossing feels like a game of Frogger.

The buses in Myanmar are pretty wild. There is a man that jumps off the bus at every stop and yells where the bus is going. He shuffles people on trying to keep the bus in motion while loading it to the brim. It is only 100 kyat (10 cents) for a bus with wooden benches and 200 kyat for padded seats (sometimes, but very rarely, I find one iwth air conditioning). You have to hold on for dear life because the drivers go fast and slam on the brakes. Buses regularly break down and you are quickly squeezed onto a new bus. Whenever the bus passes Shwedagon Pagoda, many passengers bow their head in prayer. My morning commute involves riding with monks, cages of sparrows, and many locals staring at me in disbelief. I don’t think many foreigners take the bus. I love the experience on most days.

Scooters are illegal in city limits. Only police drive them. “There are a number of rumours about why motorcycles were banned in Yangon in 2003, as well as mumblings that change is on the horizon. One version about the ban is that a person on a motorbike made a threatening gesture to a military general; another is that a motorbike rider distributed pro-democracy leaflets, and the third is that a general’s son was killed while riding a motorbike. There are no doubt others also.” –By Shwe Yee Saw Myint – Myanmar Times

Communication
Supposedly, government (military) controls internet speed and slows it down when they want. It is faster to use your phone. The cost to install internet is currently $800 plus a $50 administration fee (Nov. 2014). This should be changing soon as more competition enters the market.

The power is not stable, but much better than two years ago. The government sells a significant amount of the electricity it produces to Thailand and China, so that leaves the city with frequent power outages. Most days, they aren’t more than an hour. Sometimes it is much more. Generators are very common and kick on in most establishments. I am not so blessed in my apartment though.

SIM cards were $150 in July 2014, $600 two years ago, and even more a few years before that. As of August 2014, they are only $1.50. MPT sim cards are $7; they are a local company with the best calling service (internet is poor). Oredoo and Telenor (new foreign companies) don’t work outside of the major cities. Oredoo isn’t reliable for phone calls or texts, but the internet is decent. The foreign companies brought faster internet, but it is still painfully slow in comparison to other countries. This information is as of November, 2014.

Before sim cards became affordable, many people would go to these stands with land line phones. They pay to use them. This is Myanmar’s version of a payphone. They still exist, but are probably going to disappear over the next few years.

Miscellaneous

Cleanliness is an issue, simply because of no education about it. Bathrooms are simply hosed down, not cleaned with bleach or disinfectant. This is also an issue with food being cooked. Many places are not sanitary because they don’t know any better. Education is coming…things are changing. Until then, I won’t have a maid because the last one was cleaning the kitchen counters with the floor mats.

Beetle nut is chewed by many men. They spit red on all the streets and sidewalks, so you see it everywhere. The drug gives a very short high. It is sold on the streets at stoplights and at stands throughout town.

There are two seasons in Myanmar, hot or rainy. During Monsoon season (June-October), I found myself trudging through water past my knees. With all of the garbage and beetle nut spit, it is not pleasant. The nice thing is that the weather is fairly cool (for Yangon standards)

Myanmar is at its hottest in April and May. This is when Thingyan (New Year’s) is celebrated in their culture. It is a huge water festival. Water is thrown at passing cars and passengers. I have only experienced this in Laos and Thailand. It was really fun.

Banks – CB Bank will open accounts for foreigners. Can open an ATM account in Khet. Free deposits and withdrawals from CB ATMs. 1,000 kyat fee to use other bank’s atms. It is illegal for foreigners to gain interest, so they can’t open a traditional savings account. Can open an account that keeps currency in USD. Must pay 30 cents for every $100 you deposit. Can keep a maximum of $10,000. No fee to take out your USD. Must have your passport to open the account. At CB and some other banks the highest amount you can take out is 300,000 kyat, 3 times a day. So basically, you have to make 3 transactions at the atm to get 900,000 kyat. When I needed lots of cash quick, I dealt with machines constantly being offline or broken. The one at Junction Square seemed the most reliable. Hopefully this problem changes with all of the revolutions of internet entering the country.

Pyay, Myanmar

My coworkers and I met at 1A.M. to make the 6 hour drive to Pyay.
We began the day with a visit to Tharay-Khit Tayay. We saw the 45 meter tall, Bawbawgyi Paya Pagoda that was built in the 4th century after a king was inspired by the pagodas of India (or at least that is what I was told).

Then we went to the grave of Myanmar’s version of Cleopatra, Queen Biekthano. Unfortunately, I couldn’t find any information on her. The cordoned off stone holes below are where the burial urns were kept.

Legend is that the city of Pyay was founded by two brothers. They were born blind and because of this, their father, Thado Maha Yaza, ordered their execution. The boys were hidden and raised by their mother, Keinnayi Dewi. The father found out and tried to have them killed again, but the mother pit them on a raft down the Ayerwaddy River. An ogress helped them regain their sight while floating downstream. They landed in what is now Pyay.

Today it is a small town with many ox pulled carts and plows. Farming is everywhere. 

For breakfast, I had the local specialty of rice salad (pah tamen thoe). It is rice with spicy noodles, bits of chili, geen onion and an egg on top.

The toilet situation is pretty grim at every stop. Yes, that is a toilet.

We then crossed over the Ayerwaddy River and went about an hour south to the town of Tonbo. From here, we boarded a tipsy, narrow wooden boat to cruise south.

Hundreds of Buddhas, all different, are set in depressions of the dirt cliffs. Large, small, some even lying down.

We disembarked at the base of some mud clay steps. Up we climbed, with more Buddhas and tree roots lining our path. A few children followed me the whole way up and down. They didn’t pester my local friends…only me.

At the top was a golden pagoda, three dragons, and locals taking photos of me.

Cameras flashed at me from every angle as I sat on a bench, trying to cool down in the shade while my companions prayed. I looked sweaty and uncomfortable, but camera worthy to them. It is always a compliment.

The monks at this pagoda provide a free lunch to anyone that visits. It was a wonderful meal of rice, noodles, tofu, and creamy soup. We went into the monastery afterward to donate for the free meal.
After that, it was a long drive back to Yangon.

Advice: My tour was 25,000 kyat plus a 5,000 kyat foreigner entrance fee. This covered a private van for 12 people and a driver for the day. I was with local friends, so i think a bargain like that will be hard to find. It is a long drive, so it is probably best to take a bus and stay overnight.